Mastering Takesu: A Mark of Kanazawa’s Business Elite

When performing ozashiki taiko (parlor drumming), players strike a large tsuri-daiko (hanging drum) and a smaller shime-daiko (tightened drum). The drumsticks are gripped firmly, with no wrist snap, and the forearms remain fixed as they move.

The piece we challenged ourselves with was Take ni Suzume (Sparrows in the Bamboo), commonly known as Takesu. It is said that the fundamentals of ozashiki taiko are packed into Takesu, so if you can master it, you can apply your skills to other pieces as well.

The rhythm can be expressed in words as follows:

Don don tsuku tsuku don

“Ooya”

Don don tsuku tsuku don

“Ooya”

Don tsuku don tsuku don, tsuku tsu-tsu

“Haa”

Doo tsuku, don tsuku tsu-tsu

(The words in quotes are shouted as calls.)

This rhythm is repeated throughout the piece.

I watched the video again. The moment Kochiyo-san’s shamisen sound smoothly enters midway is truly beautiful.

Y-san remarked, “If you can play Takesu, you’ll be among Kanazawa’s business elite.”

After me, both Y-san and K-san took turns drumming as well. Their skill was truly impressive.

Drinking sake, playing the taiko, and revealing our clumsy sides to each other gradually brought us closer.

Now that we had finally loosened up, I took the opportunity to ask everyone about the flow, rules, and etiquette of ozashiki play.

Even Pizza and Sandwiches Appear at Ozashiki Gatherings

— Now, let me ask some questions for the interview. Thank you for taking the time.

To start with a simple one, how long does an ozashiki play session usually last?

Yoshikawa: One session typically lasts about two to two and a half hours. A 7 PM start, like today, is on the earlier side. Most often, these gatherings start around 8 or 9 PM as a second round of entertainment.

— Is there a peak season for these events?

Yoshikawa: Yes, the peak season is around New Year’s in January. Surprisingly, December is relatively quiet.

At the far end of the room sat the proprietress, Yaeko-san. The evening’s meal consisted mainly of sake and simple appetizers

— What kind of meals are typically served?

Yoshikawa: It depends on the gathering—some include meals, while others don’t. In Kanazawa’s tea houses, we don’t cook and serve food ourselves. Instead, we order delivery from catering services or nearby restaurants. So, it’s not just traditional Japanese cuisine—you might even find sandwiches or pizza on the table.

— Pizza and sandwiches at an ozashiki? That’s quite a surprise!

Now, a slightly awkward question… Is it true that most tea houses strictly refuse first-time customers?

Yoshikawa: Yes, that’s correct. We want our guests to fully enjoy the experience on the day of their visit, so the tea house initially covers the expenses, and we send an invoice afterward. Because of this post-payment system, we generally do not accept first-time customers without an introduction.

— So, an introduction is required to ensure payment.

Yoshikawa: That’s right. However, an introduction doesn’t necessarily have to come from a personal acquaintance. Hotels, ryoutei (traditional restaurants), or inns can also serve as introducers, which might be a more accessible option for travelers.

Kochiyo: It wasn’t just tea houses—many industries used to operate on a post-payment basis. Everything functioned under a “settle later” system. Not being overly concerned about money was considered a virtue, and the economy was built on trust.

— Now that you mention it, I recall that in Sazae-san, the neighborhood liquor store, Mikawaya, also operated that way. I didn’t realize that post-payment was more common in the past. That’s an interesting insight.

How Much Does an Ozashiki Gathering Cost?

— This is another awkward question, but for the sake of our readers, I have to ask…

Yoshikawa: Go ahead.

— How much does it cost?

Yoshikawa: It depends on the number of geisha and guests, but for example, if a single geisha entertains at a gathering for two hours, it costs about 35,000 yen (approximately $235).

— Per person?

Yoshikawa: No, that’s for the geisha’s fee. If there are 10 guests, the total cost including seating fees and drinks would be around 100,000 yen (approximately $670), meaning about 10,000 yen per person. If two geisha entertain a group of 10, the total would be around 170,000 yen (approximately $1,140), split among the guests.

— Is it common for just three people to attend, like tonight?

Yoshikawa: Three is on the smaller side. Fujinoya can accommodate up to about 20 guests, but the most comfortable number is usually around eight.

— I always imagined it would be incredibly expensive, but if you divide the cost among a larger group, it becomes a manageable amount for ordinary people.

By the way, now that I’ve been here once, am I no longer considered a “first-time customer”?

Yoshikawa: That’s right.

— So if I call and say, “This is Otsubo, who visited with Y-san,” that would work?

Yoshikawa: Yes. While we primarily take reservations by phone, we also accept emails these days. Same-day reservations are possible, too—if you call by around noon, we can accommodate you if there’s availability.

— What questions are asked when making a reservation?

Yoshikawa: We ask about the purpose of the visit, the number of guests, meal preferences, and whether you have any specific requests for geisha. Based on that, we coordinate with Kenban (the geisha association) to arrange the geisha and the meal.

— How early can guests arrive?

Yoshikawa: Most tea houses allow guests to enter about 30 minutes before the start. Once inside, you can enjoy casual conversations and performances with the geisha.

Now that you’ve experienced it firsthand, what do you think?

— At first, I was nervous. But thanks to the conversations with the geisha, the sake, and the taiko performance, I feel like we really bonded.

(Chief Editor’s Comment: The writer’s tone and behavior are gradually becoming more relaxed as the interview progresses. From the atmosphere in the video, you can tell it was even livelier than the text suggests.

I found Kochiyo-san’s remark about the past prevalence of post-payment rather charming. Indeed, in the world of rakugo (traditional comic storytelling), there are many scenes where people settle their bills at the end of the month.

Nowadays, society has become extremely rationalized, to the point where convenience store clerks feel almost like interchangeable “fixtures” in the background.

But seeing how things used to be, I can’t help but feel a certain nostalgia for the close relationships that once existed between shopkeepers and customers. At least, I do.

In Part 4, we’ll continue with an interview exploring the mysteries, rumors, and urban legends surrounding the tea house district.)