Kanazawa’s Chaya Districts: Etiquette and Experiences in Higashi, Nishi, Kazue-machi

2020.06.25

vol. 04

Stay Loyal to Your Chosen “Home”

After the interview, we head to the after-party. More details later

 

— I’ll continue with some questions. Reservations for the tea rooms are only possible in the evening, right?

 

Yoshikawa: Not necessarily, it’s not limited to the evening. If the geiko (traditional female entertainers) are available, it’s fine to have it during the day. It depends on the judgment of the tea house proprietress.

 

— Fujinoya had a bar on the first floor. Is it possible to drink with the geiko (geisha) at the bar?

 

Yoshikawa: Yes, it’s possible. If you want to drink and chat with a geiko (geisha) but don’t want to go to the full-scale tea room, the counter is a good choice.

 

— Can “first-timers” come to the counter?

 

Yoshikawa: Even at the counter, we do not allow “first-timers.” It’s preferable if you come with someone, or if you’re a traveler, you should get an introduction from a hotel or a ryotei (traditional inn).

Maiko Do Not Exist in Kanazawa

 

— This may be a bit off-topic, but both Kochiyo-san and Touko-san are geiko, right? Are there also maiko among your members?

 

Yoshikawa: There are no maiko in Kanazawa. The term “maiko” refers to the apprentice stage before becoming a geiko (geisha). This apprenticeship period is only called maiko in Kyoto.

 

— I didn’t know that at all.

 

Yoshikawa: In Kanazawa, the apprentice period is called shikomi-san. After about half a year of training, they debut as geiko (geisha). The age at which they can start working at the tea houses is 18.

 

— Are there many applicants for the shikomi-san position?

 

Yoshikawa: Girls from outside Kanazawa come to train to become geiko (geisha). The initial costs for lodging, training fees, living expenses, and setup costs are quite significant. The initial burden is quite large.

 

Still, every year we get new applicants. The training is rigorous, and some girls leave within a month due to stress or difficulty adjusting to the environment.

 

However, when a geiko (geisha) debuts after completing the training, the mayor celebrates, and the local newspapers cover the event.

 

— So, the entire town of Kanazawa celebrates the debut of a new geiko (geisha). That sounds very much in line with the spirit of Kanazawa.

The Hidden Accessibility of Chaya Entertainment

 

— Could you tell us about the rules and taboos at tea houses?

 

Yoshikawa: Tea houses tend to have a high reputation and seem to have strict rules, but the rules are not as rigid as you might think.

 

— Is there a dress code?

 

Yoshikawa: There is no dress code. It’s not like you can’t step on the tatami edges (laughs). It’s a place for guests to enjoy themselves.

 

— But, if I were to ask, are there any rules that you’d consider “rules”?

 

Yoshikawa: Well, if I had to say, it would be deciding on your “home” tea house.

 

Whether it’s the Higashi, Nishi, or Kazuemachi districts, you need to pick one tea house in each area as your base.

 

— That’s really interesting.

 

Yoshikawa: For example, if you decide that you’ll always use Fujinoya in the Higashi district, then you shouldn’t request a tea room from another tea house.

 

— I see.

 

Yoshikawa: Even if you want to call a geiko (geisha) from another tea house or invite a geiko to a ryotei, the rule is to contact your designated tea house. This rule is the same in Kyoto’s Hanamachi (geisha districts).

 

Kochiyo: Also, not touching the geiko’s kimono or body unnecessarily would be important. This is more of a social rule than a tea house-specific rule.

 

— This is very educational.

 

(Chief Editor’s Note: The last phrase of Kochiyo-san really resonated with me.

 

Vol. 05 will continue with interviews with the geiko, regulars Y-san and K-san, and discussions on after-parties and third parties.)

14 自分が呼び掛け人となってお茶屋の座敷を利用する行為。「座敷をかける」とも言う。
15 京都の場合、舞妓のさらに前の修行期間を「仕込み」と呼ぶ。
16 花街(はなまち、かがい)は芸妓たちが活動する地域を言う。金沢では茶屋街(チャヤガイ)、その他の地域では芸者町(げいしゃまち)や花柳界(カリュウカイ)と呼ばれる場合も。

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