Kanazawa’s Chaya Districts: Etiquette and Experiences in Higashi, Nishi, Kazue-machi
vol. 06
Teahouses Exist for the Local Community
A local family enjoying badminton in a less touristy area of Higashi Chaya District
Finally, I will briefly supplement this article with information about the current state of the teahouse district (as of June 2020).
The previous interview took place in December 2019, before the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic had emerged.
Afterward, gatherings involving food and drink were frequently canceled. As opportunities for geisha to perform at banquets drastically decreased, the city even provided financial assistance in April 2020 to help preserve traditional culture.
What is the situation now (June 2020)? I conducted a follow-up phone interview with Ms. Yoshikawa, the proprietress of Fujinoya.
Mid-June, a Weekday Afternoon in Higashi Chaya District. The presence of people was gradually returning. Couples dressed in yukata and groups of university students stood out.
— It has been a while. What is the current situation for teahouses?
Yoshikawa: We started receiving cancellations for banquets very early on, around February.
Since geisha performances are in high demand for hotel parties, commemorative lectures, and academic conferences, which attract people from all over the country, cancellations were decided early on.
Even before the nationwide self-restraint measures in April, we were already receiving cancellations, and in effect, we had to suspend operations.
Currently, we are accepting reservations if we receive them, of course. However, we have not been getting many inquiries yet. Many corporate clients are also continuing to refrain from holding gatherings through the end of June.
— How have the geisha been spending their time during this period of inactivity?
The kenban office in Nishi Chaya District also serves as a training venue for geisha. As you walk past, you can hear the sound of the shamisen.
Yoshikawa: Even during the break, the geisha have been diligently practicing.
However, opportunities have been limited. For example, they have not been able to invite instructors from Tokyo for lessons.
Only lessons with local instructors from Kanazawa have been held in a way that avoids crowding.
— Although travel across prefectures is now permitted, there is still a need for caution. What measures is your teahouse implementing?
Yoshikawa: Above all, we prioritize preventing the spread of infection so that our customers can feel safe using our services.
We have installed transparent acrylic partitions, provided guests with personal drumsticks for the ozashiki taiko experience to avoid sharing with geisha, and arranged seating to prevent guests and geisha from sitting face-to-face. These are some of the measures we have taken.
A teahouse is a place where guests should feel comfortable and at ease. We want to continue implementing fundamental measures to ensure a safe experience.
The Atmosphere of Higashi Chaya District in Mid-June (Weekday)
— Many industries are now using online content such as live streaming and video. Do you have any plans in this regard?
Yoshikawa: At Fujinoya, we do not currently have plans for online projects. However, there are discussions within the teahouse and geisha communities about exploring such initiatives.
Teahouses have a long-standing “no first-time customers” rule. However, we hope online platforms can introduce new audiences to teahouses and geisha culture while maintaining relationships with our existing clientele.
A Swallow Under the Eaves
— Finally, do you have a message for your regular customers who have supported you so far?
Yoshikawa: Above all, we wish for the well-being of our customers. We look forward to the day we can see them again once the situation stabilizes.
A teahouse serves only one group per sitting, meaning there is no interaction with an unspecified number of other guests, and large gatherings are rare. While implementing infection prevention measures, the geisha are continuing their practice.
Teahouses have always been places for the local community. As long-distance travel remains difficult, we hope residents will feel comfortable visiting us.
— I, too, sincerely hope for a swift resolution to this situation so that we can once again enjoy the richness of this cultural experience. Thank you for your time.
(Chief Editor’s Note: In the end, the proprietress again emphasized that teahouses have always been places for the local community.
When the time comes that we can travel and go out freely again, let’s bring back the joy and happiness of those experiences and indulge in chaya entertainment once more.)
Written by: Fumiya Otsubo & Masayoshi Sakamoto
Photography: Yasushi Takei, Masayoshi Sakamoto, & Fumiya Otsubo
Edited by: Masayoshi Sakamoto
Editorial Assistance: Hiroyuki Akashi, Reiko Hakata, & Mai Nakashima
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